If there's one thing that Manon from the Allons Rider blog is passionate about, it's surfing – even in winter. And where better than the Basque country with its famous beaches to ride those waves!
'Until nightfall.' That's what we'd said. And when it came, there was nobody left but us, the orange glow to light the way, and the feeling that we were the only ones at the end of the earth.
Winter means bigger waves, and a new board to suit the conditions. The final step before feeling the salt on my skin is to stick on the traction pad.
When you step out of the wintry waters, there's a moment I just love – wrapping yourself in a hoodie and relive the session in your mind's eye.
To be a surfer, you have to eat healthy to stay fit, especially in winter when conditions are rough.
She dries her wet, salty hair by taking to her skateboard, her hair dancing behind her, and letting the wind whistle through it after every session...
It was freezing, it was late, but we had decided to jump into the water whatever the weather. And that day, the sky had a treat in store for us.
I stayed there maybe half an hour or an hour, I couldn't say, just staring at the waves. The atmosphere was totally unreal.
This is a Mecca for surfers. Hundreds of boards being made, destined for the garages of the best surfers on the planet.
That day we woke up extra early to catch the best waves.
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By Manon Lanza
One fine day Manon left it all behind to spend all her time surfing, and it was in the Basque country that she settled. As you see from her blog allonsrider.fr, she has zero regrets!
