Chef Patrick Bertron gives us his version of Charolais beef


BurgundyFood and Wine

Pièce de bœuf Charolais , tartare au poivre de cassis, croustillant au foin
© Franck Juery - Pièce de bœuf Charolais , tartare au poivre de cassis, croustillant au foin

Reading time: 0 minPublished on 1 March 2024, updated on 16 April 2024

Fancy a culinary trip? We are about to leave for Burgundy. Chef Patrick Bertron tells us his secrets for a good piece of Charolais beef. A meat from the region worked with local products, and a recipe straight from the kitchen of the Relais & Châteaux Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu. All the elements are gathered to cook a great dish. It's up to you!

Chef Patrick Bertron has been working at the gastronomic restaurant La Côte d'Or for over 30 years. He puts forward a traditional cuisine, drawing his inspiration from the treasures of the Burgundy and Morvan region. Flavours that can be found in his recipe for Charolais beef, tartar with blackcurrant pepper and hay crisp.

With its 5 establishments in Burgundy and a starred restaurant in Paris, French cuisine holds no secrets for the Bernard Loiseau family group. Today, we push open the doors of the kitchen of the parent company in Saulieu. Between Chablis and Beaune, Auxerre and Dijon, between Beaune and Châtillon-sur-Seine, between Auxois and Morvan, this Relais & Château is the perfect starting point to explore Burgundy.

While waiting to enjoy the Burgundian landscapes, we travel to Burgundy for the time of a meal, with this recipe of the chef Patrick Bertron. Bon appétit!

Recipe for 4 people

To make the hay juice:

2 dl of beef juice 20 g of hay 15 g hazelnut clarified butter 1 cl of wine vinegar

Boil the beef juice, add the hay and leave to infuse without reduction for about half an hour, covered. Strain the juice, add the wine vinegar, boil for 5 minutes and season.
Cook the beef:

4 portions of 140gr of Charolles PDO beef fillet 100g of hay (Regain if possible) 40g of duck fat fine salt, coarse salt, freshly ground pepper, 3 cl of hay oil

Quickly brown the beef fillets in a cast iron casserole dish with the duck fat and remove them to a plate. Degrease the casserole with a small glass of water, add the hay and roll it in the deglazing juice, form a nest and place the beef pieces in the centre. Cover and cook in a 200° oven for a few minutes (3 to 5 minutes depending on the amount of cooking).

Patrick Bertron, préparant sa pièce de bœuf Charolais.
© Franck Juery - Patrick Bertron, préparant sa pièce de bœuf Charolais.

Confire the shallots:

5 large shallots 400 g duck fat

Cut 4 shallots in half lengthwise, and fry them in duck fat at 80°c for 2? to 3 hours. Once cooked, drain them and remove the centre of the shallots, leaving the skin and a layer of pulp. While the shallots are cooking, poach the marrow discs in hot salted water, then cool in iced water and crush the trimmings. Hacher la pulpe d’échalotes, lui incorporer la moelle concassée, assaisonner et farcir les échalotes avec. Peel the last shallot, slice it into thin rings and keep it cold.
Make the melting leeks and the purée:

6 large leeks 1 cl of olive oil 20 g butter

Peel 4 leeks and cut off the green part that you keep. Bake them for 40 minutes in an oven on the "vault" position, on a baking tray at half height. Tourner les poireaux toutes les 15 min de manière à ce qu’ils cuisent bien sur toutes les faces. À la fin de la cuisson, les poireaux doivent être totalement brûlés et noirs à l’extérieur. Laisser refroidir, ouvrir la croûte puis retirer délicatement le cœur et le tailler à 10 cm de long. Eplucher les poireaux restants, les émincer ainsi que le restant de vert de poireaux qui avait été conservé, laver à l’eau froide. Cuire dans de l’eau bouillante et salée quelques minutes, refroidir dès la cuisson finie dans de l’eau glacée. Mixer dans un robot coupe puis passer au chinois étamine. Just before serving, heat slightly in a small frying pan, add the melted butter, mix with a whisk and if necessary, loosen slightly with water to obtain a smooth purée, season.
Prepare the potato crisps:

1 large potato, peeled 20g of hay 1 5cl of liquid cream

With a vegetable mill, cut the potato into "spaghetti". Pour the hot and salted clarified butter over it. Masquer 2 cylindres en inox, de 10 cm de long sur 1,5 cm, de papier cuisson spécial salamandre. Enrouler sur chacun deux fois un spaghetti de pomme de terre sur une longueur de 3 cm. Faire frire à 150°C pendant 4 minutes environ, retirer les tonneaux de pomme de terre aussitôt cuit, réserver. Heat the cream with the hay and leave to cool completely, strain through a fine sieve and whip to a whipped cream texture, season. Once it has set in the cold, place it in a piping bag.

Le restaurant La Côte d'Or met à l'honneur les produits du terroir bourguignon.
© Franck Juery - Le restaurant La Côte d'Or met à l'honneur les produits du terroir bourguignon.

Prepare the beef tartar with blackcurrant pepper:

160 g beef fillet 1 egg yolk 4 g blackcurrant pepper 8 slices of bread 3cm in diameter and 2mm thick 4 slices of beef marrow

Quickly fry the 8 slices of bread in butter. When crisp, drain on paper towels. Cut the beef into small cubes with a knife, season the meat with fine salt, ground pepper, blackcurrant pepper and the egg yolk. Mix well and mould into 4 stainless steel circles 3 cm high and 2.5 cm in diameter.

Heat the leek hearts on a grill, the leek puree in a pan and the shallots in the oven, remove the tartare from the circles, place the bread slices and marrow on top, cover with blackcurrant wine syrup and sprinkle with fleur de sel and a pinch of pepper. Garnish the potato crisps with hay cream using a piping bag with a nozzle. Cut the pieces of beef in half and sprinkle with a few crystals of fleur de sel, arrange the mashed potatoes and leek hearts, the tartar, the shallots covered with the rings and the potato barrel on the plate, add the hay juice.

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