24 hours with Josephine Baker at Château des Milandes

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Dordogne ValleyCultural HeritageNature and Outdoor ActivitiesVillages and Countryside

El oasis -y utopía- de Joséphine Baker fue el Castillo de Milandes
© Banana Walery / Milandes

Reading time: 0 minPublished on 3 February 2024

Legendary artist, resistance hero, and civil rights icon, Joséphine Baker made the Château des Milandes her home for many years, raising her "rainbow family" in this historic estate. Discover this extraordinary woman’s legacy on a day tour to the heart of the Dordogne, where her story comes to life.

From humble beginnings in St. Louis to dazzling cabaret superstardom in Paris, Joséphine Baker lived many extraordinary lives—dancer, actress, resistance hero, and devoted mother. In the 1930s, she fell in love with the enchanting Château des Milandes, her “Sleeping Beauty” castle in the Dordogne Valley. She later transformed this Renaissance gem into her dream utopia, where she raised her beloved "rainbow family." Today, the château stands as a museum celebrating her legacy, inviting visitors to explore the life, artistry, and courage of a woman who captivated the world.

Château des Milandes
© Château des Milandes

9am: walk through the garden with the Rainbow Tribe

In the 1950s, Joséphine Baker did something revolutionary—she adopted 12 children from around the world, forming her "Rainbow Tribe" to promote unity and tolerance. Bringing together children from Japan, Finland, Algeria, Peru, and beyond, she envisioned her family as a living example of harmony, stating, “I want to show people of color that not all whites are cruel and mean. I will prove that human beings can respect each other if given the chance.” To share this vision, she transformed the Château des Milandes into both a home and a stage, where visitors could witness her dream in action. Today, you can explore the château and its lush gardens, stepping into the world Baker created—a testament to her courage, compassion, and unwavering belief in a better future.

 

11am: Re-tread the boards

Château des Milandes served as a living museum for Joséphine Baker, who immortalized her illustrious career by creating "Jorama," a wax museum showcasing pivotal moments from her life. Although many original figures were lost when she relinquished the château, her legacy endures. Today, visitors can admire a statue of Baker in her iconic "Revue Nègre" costume, set against an Art Deco backdrop—a tribute to the mesmerizing performer who captivated Paris in the 1920s and famously strolled with her pet cheetah on a leash. The château now houses a stunning collection of her costumes and gowns, offering an intimate glimpse into the life and style of this global icon.

 

3pm: Tour the castle and find the Renaissance traces

Long before Joséphine Baker graced its halls, the enchanting Château des Milandes boasted a rich history. Constructed in 1489 by François de Caumont for his wife, its name—derived from mi-landa, meaning 'among the moors'—reflects its idyllic countryside setting. Over the centuries, the château served as the residence of local lords in the Dordogne Valley. With elegant finials, soaring towers, intricate gargoyles, and dazzling stained glass, the château resembles a fairytale come to life. Its architecture seamlessly blends medieval and Renaissance influences, evident from the grand façade to the meticulously designed gardens. The most captivating features are the stained glass windows—brilliant, multicolored testaments to Château des Milandes' romantic history, a detail Joséphine Baker cherished.

Château des Milandes
© Château des Milandes

5pm: freshen up in the Art Deco bathroom

Josephine's Jazz Age past feels present in the fabulous Art Deco bathroom. Gold-leafed and black studded, with jade-colored porcelain (allegedly designed to match the bottle of Arpège, her favorite perfume), the dazzling deco powder room screams Left Bank. You can practically imagine the chanteuse crooning "J'ai deux amours" or "C'est lui" while luxuriating in the big green bathtub.

7pm: Relive her days as a WWII spy

 

🕊️ Joséphine Baker's Days as a WWII Spy

During the Second World War, Joséphine Baker was seldom at home at the Château des Milandes. Recruited by the French Resistance, she used her fame, extensive travels, and access to diplomatic circles to gather and transmit intelligence on behalf of France.

Did you know? Historians report that Les Milandes also served as a refuge for Jewish families during the war. Baker used her estate and resources to help protect those fleeing Nazi persecution, adding another remarkable chapter to her extraordinary legacy.

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Her celebrity made her an ideal courier. She could cross borders more freely than most and reportedly concealed coded messages in her sheet music and on invisible ink notes hidden among her belongings. She also performed for Allied troops in North Africa, putting her fame at the service of the war effort.

“It's France that has made me. I'm prepared to give it my life. You can use me as you will.”

— Joséphine Baker

For her courage and service, Joséphine Baker was awarded the Croix de Guerre and named a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. Today, visitors to the Château des Milandes can discover this extraordinary chapter of her life through personal memorabilia and exhibitions dedicated to the American-born artist who became one of France's most celebrated heroines.

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Josephine Baker was reinterred at the Panthéon in Paris on November 30, 2021, becoming the first Black woman to be honored with a burial there. Her reburial symbolizes recognition of her remarkable contributions to France, both as a celebrated performer and a war hero who fought in the French Resistance during World War II

Prepare your visit to the Dordogne Valley

Château des Milandes

By Andrew Milne