Discovering the Treasures of the Trieux

Inspiration

BrittanyCultural HeritageCycling TourismNature and Outdoor ActivitiesWell-beingCoastal

Mayliss Grison - maylissgrison.photographe@gmail.com
© Mayliss Grison - [email protected]

Reading time: 0 minPublished on 22 April 2025

Explore the Trieux estuary, tucked away on the northern coast between Saint-Brieuc and Paimpol, and immerse yourself in its rich natural and cultural heritage via the charming steam train that connects Guingamp to the coast. The Trieux river, often a well-kept secret among the Bretons, is lined with a delightful little railway that will satisfy both history buffs and nature enthusiasts alike. With its many stops, the regional train offers a flexible and convenient journey, perfect for families!

Guingamp: A Historic City and Hub of Breton Culture

Mayliss Grison - maylissgrison.photographe@gmail.com
© Mayliss Grison - [email protected]

Your journey along the Trieux begins in Guingamp, an ancient city that has thrived through the ages, easily accessible by TGV from Roscoff or Saint-Malo (via Rennes). Discover the ramparts that date back to the 11th century, built to protect the city's artisans. Look up to admire the craftsmanship of 15th-century carpenters in the beautiful timber-framed houses that rise several stories high. The Duke of Brittany, Pierre de Penthièvre, invested in the city by constructing a castle with four towers, a remnant of this opulent century.

Continue your time travel with the intricately carved doors and the granite bourgeois houses that reflect the ongoing wealth of the city, thanks to its textile industry. Your historical journey concludes at the old and unusual 19th-century prison, now transformed into a contemporary art center. Its innovative architecture for the time allowed for the exploration of Enlightenment ideas regarding an effective and humane prison system, facilitating partial or total isolation, as well as communal work. Afterward, enjoy the tranquility of the Trieux riverbanks as you stroll along the walkways, taking in the views of the washhouses.

In Breton, "Gwengamp" translates to "white camp," a nod to its rich spiritual heritage, evident in various architectural gems of religious heritage, such as the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Bon Secours and the Augustinian monastery. Breton culture remains vibrant and is celebrated every summer during the Saint-Loup festival. Consider extending your stay to enjoy traditional dance nights (fest-noz) and other festivities from August 22 to 24, 2025. The Saint Loup festival also features colourful parades, Breton music concerts, local gastronomy stalls, and artisan exhibitions, offering a true immersion into Breton culture. 

Adventures Along the Trieux: Sports, Heritage, and Nature

Mayliss Grison - maylissgrison.photographe@gmail.com
© Mayliss Grison - [email protected]

The Trieux is bordered by a small railway from Guingamp to Paimpol (a 1.5-hour drive from Roscoff or Saint-Malo), offering stunning views of its estuary. Several exploration options await you: take the regional train, hop on the steam train, cycle, or hike for historical tours or nature observations - everyone will find something to enjoy in these three variations! You can round off your day in Paimpol or catch a boat directly to Bréhat.

The Trieux Steam Train: A Hit with Kids

Mayliss Grison
© Mayliss Grison

If you're traveling with young children, you'll likely be up early enough to reach Paimpol (by regional train or car) and catch the 11 AM steam train to Pontrieux. This authentic steam train, dating back to the early 20th century and restored in 2024, is sure to delight fans of the little wizard with the lightning bolt-shaped scar, while parents enjoy breathtaking views of the ria.

 

The locomotive 141 TB 424, which has been refurbished for two years, will be back in service in 2025 and will take you to the charming 15th-century village of Pontrieux, once the port for Guingamp's trade. The winding Trieux river that flows through it has earned the village the nickname "Venice of Trégor," and you can explore it by wandering along the banks or taking a small boat. After frolicking around the village's 50 decorated and flower-adorned washhouses, the steam train will bring you back to Paimpol, a lovely port town from which you can set sail for Bréhat after enjoying a good dinner by the quays.

Mayliss Grison
© Mayliss Grison

For Cycling Enthusiasts: A Getaway to Roche-Jagu and a Detour to Sillon

Mayliss Grison
© Mayliss Grison

If you’re feeling a bit sporty, bring your bike on the regional train and hop off at Pontrieux station. After enjoying its riverbanks, head to the Château de la Roche Jagu, a 15th-century fortress built to oversee the river from its ramparts. You’ll be treated to stunning views and can relax in the medieval-inspired gardens (open access) for a well-deserved picnic before returning to Pontrieux, especially for those who want to enjoy the estuary view from the train.

For the more adventurous, a nearby road takes you up to Sillon from Talbert, a geological curiosity perfect for a walk along the water's edge. Formed after the Great Storm of the 18th century, mentioned by Defoe in the adventures of Robinson Crusoe, this ever-changing site is only accessible at certain tide times (details available on the website https://www.reserve-sillondetalbert.bzh/decouvrir/infos-et-acces). You can wait at the Maison du Sillon to discover exhibitions on local flora and fauna if needed, before heading to Paimpol for a lovely snack at a tearoom or dinner.

Breathe in the Lancerf Forest

Request a stop at Traou-Nez, about halfway, at the tiny station nestled in the Plenhoat-Lancerf forest, the largest forest mass in Northern Brittany. Enjoy a refreshing walk along its paths, among deciduous trees and conifers, on foot for the older ones and by bike for the little ones. Then, head to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Maison de l’Estuaire, located opposite the Traou-Nez stop, to learn about local wildlife, or even take part in a discovery workshop with the kids while waiting for the regional train that will ultimately take you to Paimpol for the evening.

An Evening in Paimpol

This port town is beloved for its vibrant center and beautiful shipowner houses. The city flourished, particularly during the Golden Age of the Terre-Neuvas, fishermen who journeyed as far as Iceland for the best cod - making the port the most significant fishing port in France during the 19th century. Numerous terraces with views over the port allow you to savor oysters or crepes. If you have a passion for music and tall ships, plan your visit to coincide with the sea shanty festival in Paimpol, taking place from August 8 to 10, 2025, featuring well-known artists from the Celtic scene (such as Carlos Nunez and Alan Stivell) as well as various street performances.

...or Set Sail for Bréhat!

Mayliss Grison
© Mayliss Grison

If you’re eager to explore the Bréhat archipelago, make your way to Sorbonne Plage: a favored vacation spot for a renowned scientific community in the last century (Marie and Pierre Curie, Irène and Frédéric Joliot-Curie, Jean Perrin, Louis Lapicque, Paul Langevin…), this location is now known as the Pointe de l’Arcouest and is where the Bréhat shuttles depart. It also offers splendid views of the Bréhat archipelago! In the summer, the last shuttle departs at 8 PM, allowing you to arrive in time to drop off your bags and find a vantage point to enjoy the sunset.

 

The island is particularly renowned for its stunning vegetation: French writer Prosper Mérimée described it as "lush" to the south and "lunar" to the north, evoking landscapes reminiscent of Ireland. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, the island enjoys a mild climate conducive to the growth of plants typical of southern France, like fig trees and myrtles. In spring, agapanthuses and many other flowers fill the island with vibrant colors. Hop on a bike and traverse the island to admire the wild landscapes of this archipelago, with 50% of its territory classified as a "remarkable site."

 

History enthusiasts will also find plenty to engage with through guided tours on the Terre-Neuvas or the island's first prehistoric inhabitants, or by visiting the glassworks in the island's former military citadel. After these visits, relax on the pink sands of Guerzido beach before heading back to the mainland.

Mayliss Grison
© Mayliss Grison

By Mayliss Grison

Writer and Photographer

Maylis Grison, based in Brittany, is a passionate photographer.