In the footsteps of Yolanda Edwards in Bordeaux

Yolanda Edwards is an admirer and connoisseur of the French art of living. Creative director of the Condé Nast Traveller magazine, "Yolo" has spent a large part of her career finding good addresses all over the world. For, she indulges in her favourite activity, except that the destination in question is none other than her adopted city: Bordeaux and the Médoc region. It's time to open Yolanda Edwards' Bordeaux travel diary and discover the passionate craftsmen who make French know-how shine.

Château Lynch-Bages: exceptional wines in the Bordeaux vineyards

How can you start a trip to Bordeaux without a stopover in the vineyards of the Médoc, one of the most famous vineyards in the world? Yolanda invites us to meet Jean-Michel Cazes, passionate winegrower and owner of Château Lynch-Bages, Grand Cru Classé, alongside his son and worthy successor Jean-Charles. Contemporary art lover, each year the Cazes family open their doors of the old cellars to a renowned artist and hold a fabulous exhibition.

Discover Château Lynches Bages in Pauillac, near Bordeaux (External link)

Maison Baroc: discovering the charcuterie of the Médoc

The treasures of the Médoc are not limited to the beverage, far from it. North of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne River, Sylvain Andreux ardently defends his territory and his terroir by sublimating the region's emblematic local products, served in several starred restaurants. His specialities include the iconic foie gras marbled with wine, pâtés en croute with morels, rillettes with wine and ceps, grenier médocain, a famous local delicatessen along with spicy aromas. Exceptional craftsmanship.

Discover the preparations of the Baroc house, artisan-caterer in the Médoc (External link)

Fromagerie Deruelle: happiness on a tray

In the centre of Bordeaux, close to the Place du Palais, Elodie Deruelle has another French savoir-faire. Brie with pistachios and figs, Lou Carat, Chevrotin des Aravis, Grataron d'Arêches, Chevrette de Novel... Bordeaux's finest dairy shop offers no less than 150 varieties of farmhouse and AOP cheese. Within various stalls, you will also find sweet preparations based on (of course) cheese such as gougères, tiramisus and cheese cakes.

Discover the creations of the Deruelle cheese dairy in Bordeaux (External link)

Au Pétrin Moissagais: good bread from the wood-fired oven

What would a piece of cheese be, however delicious, without a slice of good sourdough Gascon bread? According to Yolanda Edwards, the tastiest (and most unusual) bread in the city, Serge Combarieu, a passionate artisan-baker whose shop is located near the Halle des Chartrons. His inimitable taste comes from his baking method: a wood-fired oven dating from 1765! An ancestral know-how which requires patience, about four hours per batch, but which delights locals and tourists. Le Pétrin Moissagais also offers a variety of pastries, including the indisputable chocolatine!

Discover the viennoiseries of the Pétrin Moissagais, artisanal bakery in Bordeaux (External link)

Retro Bicicletta: in Bordeaux the bikes have style

To stay in shape after this gourmet rally and explore Bordeaux in complete freedom, there is nothing like a bike ride along the Garonne. With 40 kilometres of cycle paths and 100 kilometres of cycle lanes, the city is adapted to soft mobility. You can hire a self-service bike, mechanical or electric, to reach the Cité du Vin and the Musée Mer Marine. On the way, vintage bike enthusiasts will be delighted to linger at the Rétro Bicicletta cycle shop, a workshop-boutique where Clément Tafflet and his team overhaul and repair old bicycles to make authentic, elegantly designed bicycles. A great way to tour the local shops in style while keeping a traditional know-how alive.

About Yolanda Edwards

Creative director of Condé Nast Traveller magazine and then editor of her own magazine Yolo Journal, Yolanda Edwards is a travel expert.
After travelling the world in search of good addresses, authentic encounters and encouraging her readers to travel ethically and sustainably before it was trendy, "Yolo" as she is known, finally settled in 2015 in a small village in the Médoc, between Bordeaux and the Gironde estuary. Sensitive to the French art of living, she fell under the spell of local know-how. Wine growing of course, but also charcuterie, bakery and the manufacture of vintage bikes.

Getting to Bordeaux